Fire in the Rain 8b+ at Anston Stones

Recently I finally had that elusive perfect go and succeeded on what feels like a long term project at Anston Stones. I’m going to call the line 'Fire in the Rain' and suggest a grade of 8b+. It is essentially the full left hand continuation of an existing 8a+ line called 'White Light Direct'. There is a bit of a story behind this bit of rock and i wrote about it in a previous post which can be found here: http://redclimbing.blogspot.com/2010/11/white-light-at-end-of-tunnel.html . To pick up where that left off; it seriously niggled in the back of my mind and a month later I found myself on a ladder cleaning the holds on the left and working on the moves. (trying the line in the December snow photo T Simpson)

The full line now takes an amazing line up the left side of the arete and is severely overhanging all the way. This line now has a proud highball feel to it and In my opinion by far the best line at the venue with some great moves. If I was to offer a criticism it is slightly eliminate you have to stay strictly left under the roof all the way keeping your right hand on the poor arete holds only, and your left on the left most holds. This is not as bad as it sounds as when you look at the rock this seems like the obvious challenge and bailing out early feels like just that! The picture right shows the holds i used (not in order), anything right of the red line is on the side wall and therefore out.

Numbers Rundown

Here are some comments on the grading as clearly this will raise a few eyebrows. Well for starters I feel like I have been building up to this climb for a long time. If you read the link you will get a run down of the history. But basically 'Fire in the Rain' starts sitting as for 'White Light' which you have to climb with my original 8a sequence (Hard White Light?) to allow you to eliminate the side wall holds on the harder version. There is an easier method which is still climbable despite a hold breaking that is only 7c+ but you are forced into using a good edge and a jug just above on the sidewall, which lead naturally right into the corner. Instead you have to stay left and make tricky on/off heal hook moves to get to a good slopey crimp. This is essentially 'White light Direct' which is about 8a+, which goes up for a juggy ledge on the side wall a bit further along the arete. This is called 'Direct' as the logical finish for this is to climb up the right side of the arete rather than right to the corner.

'Fire in the Rain' stay left and involves a further tricky dead point and another tenuous heel hock move were you have to move your hand to a poor hold. After spending some time on the problem i think this is probably the hardest move. After this some basic locks get you right to the top of the crag. Linking all of this together was both hard and very frustrating as the more I would try the more I got frustrated with the on-off nature of the moves. After the start which finally felt powerful but fairly secure you have to make a series of moves where at any point you could just slip off. The most frustrating thing was the final heel hock move!! (Trying to get the top heel to stick photo T Simpson)

So bearing all this in mind with the top being quite hard in its own right with a very tenuous move it makes sense that this climb is at least 8b but I think its move than a one grade extension. Also for me it felt like one of hardest and certainly the most frustrating climb I've ever done. It certainly is a lot harder than Keen Roof or Serenity/Serendipity and took me a lot longer to climb in total, so I really think it’s worth the plus. Recently the variations have been tried by a couple of strong climbers and that left me happy about my logic and that I’ve not lost the plot. ‘Fire in the Rain’ certainly feels very hard but in a different way to normal power style problems, where it is usually just about getting stronger in a basic way, something I feel makes this climb a bit special!

(A different perspective of the problem photo T Simpson)

Four Days Bouldering in Can Boquet

Fed up of the Seemingly endless spells of rain and dampness that seem to plague England every time I free some time up in my busy life to just go climbing. I decided enough was enough and agree to go on a mad four day trip to Spain the land of endless sunshine. I and three friends jetted out to Barcelona with the intention of checking out the Boulders of Can Boquet and giving them a through going over. I didn't know much about the climbing before going out there but I got a copy of the topo and it looked like there was plenty to have a go at. One thing that I did come across was an area test piece called 'Biceps Power an 8a+. This seemed like the problem to test your self on and to try to climb out there. Only problem was it looked like an undercut power problem which is far from my specialty. One thing I did know was that this was going to be an intense trip.

Day 1:

We Landed and high tailed it straight up to the boulders. The first venue we checked out was Sector Nou, the home of the 'Biceps Power' (Photo right- T Simpson). I couldn't help myself, I was in no fit state to try it after just flying in, but my impatience got the better of me. After about an hour of getting nowhere, I finally figured out a sequence and did the moves. The only trouble was linking them before my skin gave out. I had another desperate hour of failed tries and long rest, before some how, by the skin of my teeth, sticking the crux from the start and battling through to the end. It was far from the smoothest accent I'd ever done. But I got the tick, and a good job too as I had ripped my thumb apart and had flapper style cuts to two of my fingers. It was very much a make or break moment for me and having got that done I felt my confidence rise and felt the pressure drop. I decided to just get as many good problems done as possible. Still feeling first day strong I quickly did a very cool 7c called 'Croquet Man'. Then in the dying light I headed up to try an 8a 'Tenacita Variante' on the recommendation of a local. On seeing the line I knew it suited me and after about 4 tries I'd done it from standing (7c+ish ) and followed by doing it first go from its logical sitting start. Not a bad first day! (Photo left - D Skoczylas)

Day 2:

On the morning of the second day we woke up to blue skies and sunny weather. We decide we would check out Sector Classic which is regarded as the other of Can Boquets main areas. On arriving it didn't disappoint. I warmed up then headed straight for the only 8a there 'Transporting' (Photo right - T Simpson). This looked very gritstony being a slight rising traverse on sloppy edges ending in a mantle on slopers. That done I relaxed even more and drifted around just climbing the best looking lines. Highlights included climbing 'Suc De Toronja Directo Sit' 7c a very classy looking slopey aerate and 'Delincuent Habits, a proud looking high ball arête line given 7c the guide but possible over graded?

Day 3

The weather forecast was bad for day three and the sensible thing to do would have been to take a rest day which the sensible climbers did. However me being me got up really early to beat the rain and arrived at the crag as the sun was just coming up. After a ridiculously poor warm up that involved climbing a 7b+ called Sex Apple. I headed straight to 'Gollum' a 7c+ back at Sector Nou (Photo left - T Simpson). It looked like another good powerful line. I gave it a few tries and quickly got the moves. The only trouble was my body was tired from all the climbing. Time was short with rain on it's way. But the conditions were brilliant and I knew if I didn't climb it now I probable never would. I took a gamble with a massive rest then on summoning deep reserves managed to top out just as it started to rain. The rain was almost welcoming and we decided to head to the beach and check out the tourist sites.

Day 4:

Mastergrip 7c Photo T SimpsonOn day four the sun was shining again for our last day in Spain. We headed first to Sector Classic where people wanted to finish unfinished business. I took a long time to warm up and try and get my, by now, broken body working again. I really wasn't going to get involved in anything trick but some how ended up trying 'Mastergrip' (Photo right - T Simpson) a ridiculously slopey 7c which I had purposefully avoided on Day 2, just because I didn't look possible! But once I’d tried it, I couldn't leave it alone not wanting to be beaten. Two hours later after battling with fatigue, Sore skin, bad sequences and sun, I managed to scrape over the top of the problem. It felt really hard for 7c and possibly under graded, but then again I was in no fit state to judge grades. After that I headed back to Sector Nou and finished off the easier problems there before splitting a tip and deciding enough was enough and that I really didn't want to climb any more as it all hurt too much. I had achieved my goal and climbed all the main lines in the two best sectors. Trip over we all had a hassel free flight back and landed in a dull damp England, which was all a bit of a shock after the nice weather of Barcelona.

So what did I think of Can Boquet? Well I have herd it said that there is not a lot there, the boulders are small and it's not worth the effort. To be honest I can see where people may get that impression from. If all you want to do is come and circuit climbs under 6c+ then you would be done in a day, unless you wanted to scrape around on the lower boulders. For me I found I really enjoyed pushing myself as the style of problems was such that they weren't just about power, but required subtlety as well, much like gritstone. As a place to come and climb at your limit there are some very nice harder lines. Because of the short nature of our trip we only really visit the two main sectors and that was enough as people found projects they wanted to spend time on. But just thumbing through the guide reveals there is a lot more to go and explore if you were here for longer. I certainly wouldn't mind if I ended up back here, so I'd recommend paying a visit, if only to stop off whilst exploring some of the many other areas in this part of Spain.

Dawid Skoczylas made a nice little video of the trip:

Can Boquet Bouldering Near Barcelona from Robin Müller & Dawid Skoczylas on Vimeo.

Tintwistle Knarr Boulders - The time to reveal

Over a period of about a year i have been slowly re-developing the sadly long forgotten and neglected boulders to be found below Tintwistle Knarr quarry. I have had some truly special days up here with close friends who i have managed to convince that the long hard slog up would be worth it. During this time i have cleaned and climbed some truly great climbs. This has included Acopella 8a, Straight No Chaser 7c, and the Lone Ranger 7c+ and loads of other cool lines on fantastic boulders.

But there was one project that always eluded me, an obvious hard sit start up a mini arete to an old classic really cool porthole problem. I always told myself that this would be the final problem I wanted to do before making the boulders more public. You know by looking at it that if you can just get one hand good in porthole then holding any swing and toping will be fine. Only trouble is there are no real holds below it. I've tried this line almost every time I've been up, but never really seriously, always just being chilled out about it.

Recently i wondered up there with a friend after not trying the line for months and managed to send it. It's funny how sometimes it's just like that. It came down to good conditions and remembering to try something different. I'm going to call the line The Enigma and it's around the 7c+/8a mark. (It may be easier but then I never could grade.)

If your after something different and your up that way, then head to these boulders, the climbing really is quite good and theres a big circuit of all grades. To find them just walk directly down the scree slope from the quarry. Keep going until you nearly fall over the edge of the hidden boulders. The topo can be found below.

Photos- M Hyde.

Tintwistle Knarr Boulders - Topo

Tintwistle Knarr Boulder

Top Boulder

1. Nikita 7a – Start sitting in the pit from a specified starting position left on the undercut right on a gaston hold at the same level. From here cross over to the slopers and use these to get the left arête

2a. Nikita Righthand 7b - A harder variation finish. Instead of getting the left arête Cross over again to get established on the slopey layaway and get the top of the boulder on the right

2b. Leon 7b+ - Start with the left on the low sidepull and the right undercutting the right arête. Make a hard slap up to the crimp in the crease, then left to the good slopey sidepull.

3. La Femme Slab 5+ – Climb up the centre of the small slab using some great large pebbles

4. La Femme Fatale 7b+/7c From a sitting start climb the left side of the arête all the way to the lip to finish with a grim mantle. Has a very bad landing.

4b. Top Slab 5 - from the boulder underneath climb the line left of problem 4.

Pit Boulder

5a. Soul Deep 6b+ - From a standing start right in the bottom of the pit climb up the centre of the wall

5b. Soul Deep Sit Start 7b (soft) - From a sitting start in the pit bottom, left on the big pocket and right hand on the arête. Make some stiff locks to get established on the stand up

5c. Deep arête right 6b+ - From the standing start in the pit bottom, pull on and then move to the right arête. Can also be done from a sitting start at 7bish
6. Soul arête left 6c – Again from the pit standing start pull on and traverse to the left arête and finish up this. As before this can also be done form the sitting start at 7bish

7. Serial Thriller 6a – From the ledge step right and climb the front face of the boulder using only that boulder for hand and feet.

8. 5 – Climb up the left side of the right arête. Can also be done from sitting

9. 5+ - Climb up the centre of the face. This too has also been done from sitting.

10. 5 – climb up the left side of the face.

Bottom Boulder

12. Fire Fly 6c+ - Start from sitting on the low sloping crimp. Climb up the wall just to the left of the arête

13. Small Wall 4 – From a sit start climb up the short wall

14. Layaway wall 6b – From a sit start at the bottom of the arête pull on, more your right foot around the boulder and then climb up the undercut layaways to the top of the boulder.

15. Mr Brightside 7a – From the same sitting start this time follow the arête leftwards staying low to get the lip. Once here mantle the arête on the left side.

16. Underpass 6c – From the left hand block under the roof pull on with the hands and feet on this block only, undercut out to the lip and mantle.

Small Boulder

17. Small Wall 4 – Use the big holds to climb up the front face on the small boulder
18. Small Arête 6c – From a sit start make a tricky move to get established on the arête. Short but sweet.

Tree Boulder

20. Overhanging Arête 6c – From a sitting start follow the arête rightwards then up

21. Straight No Chaser 7c – From the specified sitting starting position of left hand on a low pinch and right in the big pocket. Slap directly straight out of the roof and finish up the arête

22. Dream Chaser 7b – From a sit start with the hand in the pocket and right at the bottom of the arête. Follow the arête left until it is possible to rock it. Do not traverse to the big holds on the left and use these to top out, doing so is easier.

23. The Groove 4 – Climb up the slanting groove

24. Thin Slab 7a – Climb up the thin slab direct staying off the groove footholds

25. Pocket slab 6c – Climb up the slab just left of the arête using the good small pockets. Keep off the big footholds to the right.

26. The Arete 5 – Climb the arête on its left hand side.

27. Deforestation 7a – Climb the arête on it’s solely on its righthand side being strict (Only using the arête and not the good holds on the left side).

27b. Deforestation Sit Start 7b – This time form a sitting start.

28. The Porthole 6c+ Starting with both hands in the porthole climb directly upwards.

29. The Enigma 7c+/8a – From sitting start with left hand on the arête head up and around to the porthole probably morpho.

30. The Porthole Traverse 7a – Starting with both hands in the porthole traverse right an finish up the mini prow

31. The Rib 6b+ - Climb up the vague rib, Can be done from a similar sitting start as for 29 at 7b Finishing up problem 30 instead is 7b+

32. Easy Wall 5 – The wall above the deep pocket can be done from sitting at 6a+ish?

33. Pocket Wall 6a - Climb the wall up to the deep shot hole

34. The Hanging Arete 6a? – Just to the right from a sit start climb up the hanging arête

35. Way Down 3 – Any way up the slabby wall to the right of the arête. Also the way down.

Slab Boulder

36. Easy Slabs 3+ - Various ways up the easy slab

37. Left Slab 6a – Starting at the bottom of the slab head up the left side to get the left arête.

38. Right Slab 5+ - Starting at the bottom this time head directly up the right side staying off the right arête. Using this is a grade easier.

39. Back Side Arête 6c+ - From a sitting start climb up the right side of the arête. A grade easier form standing.

40. Back Side Slab 6a+ - Climb up the slab just right of the arête.

Big Boulder

41. Overhanging Arete 6a – From a sitting start climb the left arête.

42. Left Wall 6c – Climb the wall just right of the arête directly

43. Seam Wall 6c+ - Climb the centre of the wall using the seams

44. Two Pocket Wall 6b – Climb up the righthand side of the wall staying left of the arête and using the pockets

45a. Right Arete 5 – Climb the left hand side of the arête

45b Debstar 7a – Start at the right arête and traverse left staying low to finish up problem 41.

46. The Big Slab 3+ - Climb up the high slab anywhere it all feels high and scary. A direct sit start mantle can be done at about 6b+

47. Whispa Loudly 7a+/7a – Climb up the right hand side of the left arête, highball

48. The Ramp 6c+7a – From a sit start on the shelf climb up and rock onto the slab. Can also be linked into problem 47 at 7b?

49. The Dark Side 7a/7a+ - From a sit start at the right hand side of the overhang, climb up to the good holds and head for the good flat hold on the arête. Can also be linked into problem 47 at 7b?

50. Midnight Monster 7b - Start as for problem 49 but climb the wall staying right of the arête on the wall to the top of the boulder. Highball and a very bad landing awaits. The standing start reduces the grade to 7a.

51. Broken Moon 7a – From a standing start climb up the series of layaways passing a broken flake

52. Hard Moon 7cish – From a sitting start at the right hand vague arête (Left on a layaway, right good edge) move up to thin holds then move left to the broken flake and finish up. Avoiding the issue.

53. Acopella 8a – The true line finishing directly instead of moving left, using a great conditions dependent slopey slot hold. (The top has been cleaned since the photo was taken)

Satalight Boulder

About 100 meters right of the big boulder are two boulders leaning against each other forming a pit below them.

54. Lone Ranger 7c+ - From a sit start with right hand on a good sidepull, slap up slopey holds to get a good jug and an easier finish. Use only the block for the feet. hard Up the face to the right has not been climbed.

White Light - At the end of the tunnel

White Light is a climb with a bit of a history, well for magnesium carbonate anyway! It is the best looking line at the wave area by far. The odd thing is that on getting there you might well walk past it and never even notice it. Until that is, you turn around and walk back out. Then this prow of rock seems to have come from nowhere. You can’t help thinking to yourself WOW!



Now about its history, well I have a strong memory of being stood under it with Adam Wood. He was the first a think to seriously consider a line up it ‘He said it would be amazing staying on the prow’. I dismissed it as impossible and Adam thought he would struggle with the reaches. It was not until I had got stronger especially at crimping that I gave this ago. I remember coming back from a trip to Squarmish, feeling really good about my climbing and just doing it. Great White Light was born. The name reflects how I felt about my climbing and at that time, also it was the only climb that didn’t seem to lurk under the dark side of a roof. The crux involved three great moves which crimped, pinched then slapped up the right side of the prow to a jug on the right before moving back left and topping out. Great however I remember having conversations with people at the time, everyone agreed the moves looked great but they all would say the same thing it would be better staying up the left and not heading to the jug. I used to defend the line saying ‘But it’s the line of least resistance’. But deep down I agreed. I graded White light 7c+ which seemed fair at the time. By modern standards it might only have been 7c, but we’ll never know as it turns out. Whilst trying to repeat the problem to film it, I managed to pull off the main bottom crimp. I still have the clip. Now that sequence was impossible. I remember feeling devastated. I really loved that climb and it was by far on the most visually appealing rock line there. I remember being angry with myself, I became determined to re climb the line to save the problem. This would mean staying further left than before for the first moves which would be harder. No problem I’ll just get stronger?



The Death of White Light (Version 1)






After a Bit of effort I managed to re-climb it with a great sequence. White light was reborn!!! I graded it 8a. This involved a big move to a small crimp, a neat heal hook behind a tufa, a pop move to a pinch and then a big slap right to the jug. I remember really struggling with my feet continually popping on this which was frustrating. Enter into the story the next generation. Dan Warren spent some time at the wave and amongst other things did the second ascent. Not really news, but he did however find a new easier sequence than the one I had used. This involved a cool drop knee and a move to an undercut before slapping around to the jug. Dave Mason repeated the problem like this as well. I had a play and I remember feeling a little disappointed. It felt easier than my original method. I’m not surprised I missed it, I’ve never liked drop knees. A shame really as this method was probably only 7c+? I say was only 7c+ as it didn’t last. The undercut pulled off on someone and that was the end of that. I have to admit I’m not that disappointed as the end result is that my original method is the easiest again, back up to 8a we go! All this is great but it’s really just an aside, as both sequences made a beeline for the jug and holds out on the right. Voices kept whirring around my head ‘It would be better staying on the left’. Dave even mentioned it as obvious. It was clear the best line would be to stay directly on the left side of the prow.



It was only at the start of this summer that I finally got around to trying it. I was skint and really short on climbing time due to the birth of jack and in need of a project. I had a bunch of short sessions on it and got a sequence together. The problem was it was core sapping and easy to drop at the top. When I would add the sit start moves in I would just fail. It felt really hard! On the last session before it just got too hot I dropped it from the last move, but try as I might I just couldn’t get there again. I thought to myself something is not right? It just didn’t look as hard as it was feeling. I stopped for the summer as it got to hot.



I came back to the problem at the start of autumn for one quick session with Tony in the fading sunlight. I found I couldn’t string the moves together, Out of frustration I started to try other sequences, anything that came to mind, to tame the moves. It was obvious that if you could just make an outside edge move you would be able to walk your heal up on the right. And take out a power sapping series of moves. I tried but had no joy, it just wouldn’t stick. It was obvious this would be the key to really opening up the climb for me. Tony that day had brought out some new shoes he wanted us to try out. ‘Why don’t you try them on it, you never know?’ in the past I’ve always worn the same shoes and it was a bit of a superstition I had that I could only climb in that brand. So I didn’t hold out much hope. Pulling on from standing I tried, for a moment the outside edge stuck then slipped. I tried again and it stuck but I fell off higher up. A third time and I did it from standing and finished off the problem. This in one stroke blew my superstitions out of the water. It felt like it was the way, it was still a very droppable move but when it stuck it really worked. Only one problem, the shoes were half a size too big. So there was no way I could do the tension heel hook and edge moves from the sit start. I decided I would get the right size and then come back.



It was a while before I got to go back with those shoes, but last Friday was that day. It was now the end of autumn. Magnesium carbonate is a magical place at this time, when the trees are thin and it lets in the light. I tried them out on the sequence and got them to work. Droppable but okay if the outside edge stuck and you got the heel in. I tried the sit down moves and they felt easy in the conditions. It was time. Second red point later White Light Direct was born. I think 8a+ is fair for this. But it’s always funny as climbs always feel hard when you can’t do them and then fine when you can. What’s more important is I now feel like I can silence the voice in my head. I think that’s it in the History of White Light. It’s settled down now and no more holds seem destined to break. Having said that maybe you could extend the Direct by ignoring the big ledge and highballing up on the left…… maybe it will go …… maybe this is too eliminate to bother……….?

Here's some eye candy, showing some of Magnesium Carbonates finest, including footage of Mike sending white Light Direct. Enjoy - Skinny!

Magnesium Bouldering Action from Owen McShane on Vimeo.

The Seldom Seen Kid 7c+

This week on Tuesday night i finally got up the single piece of rock which has subconscious dominated my thinking for about 4 months. A great line just sat there in the middle of nowhere just minding its own business, knowing that one day it would be ignored no longer.

On one one of the very first recent bouldering visit that i made to Crowden this year, was up to Black tor. Our goals were to clean and climb on the good looking boulder left of Wolverine (A fantastic undergraded E4 5c route which would get more attention if it was anywhere else) and to ground up a HVS 6a route called the Pennine Way Variation, both can be found in the old kinder guide. All this we managed, however we couldn't help but notice the stunning left arete to this block. I had a quick go but it was pretty obvious that night that it was harder and scarier than it's neighbour. Also the difficulty and nature of the climbing meant that it needed cleaning on a rope. Then we left. Well its been playing on my mind.............A lot.

Last week i managed to nip up there, ab down and clean the holds. I even tried a few of the moves. This i found scary as i was on a grigri and it became apparent that on none of the moves you could take a hand off to chalk or pull through rope. Added to this at the top there is a real Chance of a barn door swing that would send you out of control on to some boulders. But it was cold in the wind and the friction was good, really for the time of year. I left and went away for the weekend with the family. I spent a lot of time thinking and wondering.

On Tuesday i returned after work with an old friend from Hull and 5 Pads. We warmed up on the Wolverine boulder which was pleasant and the friction was okay. The one downside was the midges, we just weren't quite getting enough wind and they were eating Andy alive. He looked at me and he said "we best go over there if you want to try this problem" I knew at that point that he wasn't going to be up for staying to much longer. I had hoped to ab down it again and clean the holds a familiarise myself with the moves, but these hopes slowly evaporated. So we hack over through the heather and set the pads up as best we could. I had three goes on the bottom balancey moves falling onto the pads. I tricked myself into thinking "that's alright that" maybe i should just go for it. Andy Jibbed it and I realised that i didn't have long before the midges drove him mad. Something inside my head switched, i suddenly really wanted to climb this piece of rock badly. I told myself that Andy is one of the best spotters i know and now is a good time. Next thing i knew I'd started climbing and made it through the bottom delicate moves and got a good layaway high up. I moved my feet up really high and slapped up the arete, then slapped with the right to a sloper. At this point i can remember really vividly noticing the right hand start to creep. I panicked a bit and looked down to jump off. I realised that getting on to the pads would be hard and that even a controlled fall was going to hurt....... a lot. I realised i had to fight this one out! Resetting my head and the hand i brought a foot up high and managed to get both hands higher before reaching for what i knew was a good edge. My left foot started to move on the smear i was stood on and just as it felt as it was about to blow i felt my fingers go over the edge of the hold. I will never forget the relief that went through my body. technique forgotten i hauled myself as quickly as i could up to some jugs at the top and just stayed there for ages quivering. Enjoying the moment and the adrenaline. Its one of the things i love most about climbing is that sense of just being happy to have survived and succeeded.

Grade wise I reckon its worth 7c+ if only for its seriousness. E7 might be a better grade but i don't know route grades that well to know for certain. It also might be easier in cooler weather but I don't want to go up there again to check. Its probably the most scared I've ever been or at least it comes close. But a lot of that could be the circumstances. Whatever I'd rate as one of the best highball line I've done in the peak. But it will never see much attention because of where it is which is a shame. But if you made the effort you would not be disappointed. I'm going to call it the Seldom Seen Kid, partly for this reason but also because of a chat i had with a friend who no one seems to see much anymore.

Below I've included a topo to this area of Black tor, i posted a map showing the general locations of the blocks last month.

1. Vague Arete 6a. The left arete

2. Baby Wolverine 5+. The centre of the face a harder variation can be done just right.

3. Crowden Girls 7a+. From a sitting start on the two edges slap up the vague rib. easier from standing

4. The Arete 6c+. From a sitting start climb up the right side of the arete.

5. The Arete left hand 7a. From the same sitting start after the first move move around to climb the left side of the arete to the top.

6. The Groove 7a. Climb the grove eliminating the arete and the flake hold out right.

7. One Arm 6c. from a sitting start not using the blocks on the right. Climb up the flake holds. About 5 from standing

8. 4. Traverse the lip of the boulder behind. A slightly harder direct start can be done moving off the good break to the top

Just up and right is a boulder set into the hill side

9. Slap Problem 6b. From a low start slap up the right hand block.

10. Technicians Day Out 7b. Climb up the right side of the arete to slopers. Involving a slap off a toe hook. Do not use any of the boulders jammed in the crack.

11. Means to an End 7a. From the undercuts climb directly upwards to the lip of the boulder staying left.

12. The Crack 5+ From the same start move right to the good rack and then follow this up.

Up over on the left of the Wolverine boulder is another big boulder. On the left side of this is a campus problem which starts undercutting with feet on the slab. to campus up on edges to get the lip. the traverse off left. This Is Thugs Day Out 7b

Going right from the Wolverine boulder you find a pit. This has a good problem up the wall on the left. It starts stood on a cleaned boulder with a choice of rubbish edges and makes a pop into a pinch hold in the groove. Holding this is the crux, if you manage it get the slopers above and mantle to grab a tree. This is Phantom Lights 7b+.

If you carry on around and up the hill you come to really good highball problems only spoilt by a heather top out.

13. Seldom Seen Kid 7c+ Climb the left arete of the block.

The jewel in the crown!

14. Pennine Way Variation 6c. Climb the centre of the slab with the crux being rocking over the lip low down above a falt landing. very good despite the name.

Angry Love at the Weasel Stones

This Saturday 3 strange things happened:

1. O let himself be convinced that climbing on moorland grit instead of limestone would be a good idea. On a hot summers day. He was not alone bringing a bunch of the Liverpool climbers with him.

We decided to check out the bouldering at Black tor, heading to the weasel stones to warm up before getting to the good stuff.

2. We spent most of the day in that one area.

3. Si who had been un-intentionally tricked into coming along didn't moan!

This was all strange because i had dismissed them as being a bit rubbish. Turns out i was wrong.

What resulted was a very chilled out and enjoyable thorougher going over of the weasel boulders. Everything was repeated (accept Playing with Fire) and a lot of good new stuff was unearthed by the eagle eyed boys. Nothing earth shatteringly hard but just what was needed on a hot day. The result is a bunch of nice mid grade problems which are really quite pleasant and really add to the circuit of problems now found in the area.

Here is now the updated list of problems found in this area.

1. Playing With Fire 8a
From a sitting start on two crimpy layaways make a stiff pull off the floor to slap to the okay crimp and use this to get the top. Gritstones answer to Sway On!!!!

2. One Move 5+
From the good edge in the centre of the boulder pop to the top and pull over.

3. 3
Step off and climb up the big slab not using either arete

4. Angry Love 6c+
Sit start with both hands matched on the big layaway on the face of the boulder. Using this and a heel hook lock to the arete and finish up this.
(Picture right of Smooth Pete catching the arete)

5. Technical Love 7b
Sit start again matched on the big layaway on the face of the boulder. This time traverse rightwards not using any of the big holds on the ill defined lip of the boulder. Use only the low holds to finish on a flat jug over on the right arete of the boulder. Quit technical.

6. Magic Love 6c
Start from sitting with specified starting holds. Left hand on a small side pull in the cave, right on a low crimp pinch on the face right of the arete. Move up to the shoulder hold then go for the top. (Picture right)

7. 4
Smear up the left arete of the slab

8. The Left Slab 5+
Smear up the slab just left of centre

9. The Right Slab 6a
Smearing up the slab just right of centre is a bit harder

10. 3
Smear up the right arete of the slab

11. Don’t Dab Arete 6b
Start from sitting with specified starting holds. Right hand on a small sidepull in the cave, left on the arete. From here climb the arete staying on the right side all the way. Good moves which are spoilt by the closeness of the boulder behind but still worth doing.

12. The Mantle 6a+
On the boulder just behind and left of problem 1. Start from sitting and climb the right arete using the big ledge on the right to a tricky mantle.

13. Atari 7a+
From a sit start slab up the two arêtes until you get to a sloper on the left. Use this to swing around the left side and finish up the heathery top out.

14. The Weasel 6b
Start from sitting in the pit with the left on a low undercut pinch and the right on a higher edge. Pull on then using an intermediate go for the good ledge.

15. Manchester March 5+
Start from sitting at the right arete and follow this leftwards, then continue traversing left along the good ledge to finish at the left side of the boulder.

16. Loves Stroll 5+
From a sit start at the left arete follow the lip rightwards around the prow to rock out on the right side.

17. The Groove 6a+
Climb the attractive looking grove from a sit start. Start with both hands on low holds below the lip

The next two problems can be found in a pit slightly higher up.

18. Si’s Problem 6a
From a sit start on a boulder jammed underneath lock out and around the small roof.

19. Friend of Ours 7b+
Climb the attractive looking wall and arete from a sit start (Left hand arete, right hand low undercut/layaway). A hard pull on is followed by a very tricky dynamic move to catch a high diagonal edge just below the top, which is probably English tech 7a. An easier move follows and then top out.