Wednesday, 30 June 2010

Sprotbrough Days

Sprotbrough, Sprotbrough? What the flippin heck is that all about i hear ypu say! Well Mo Owfield was rumored to have climbed a 7c+ here for a start. One evening the boys decided to go take a look and we were pleasantly surprised by what we found. A classy looking buttress which was obviously neglected but showing signs of previous clawings. A hard evenings cleaning later and this beauty was re-released from the undergrowth. Its like Gypsy Buttress on acid! A couple of sessions later and this is what we found.

1. High and Dry 7b+
At the very left hand side of the crag, climb up the highball wall with the undercut start which leads to some crimps on the face.

2. Shelf life 7a+/7b
Use an obvious pinch to get into a position to slap for the left end of the good shelf and a finish using the tree roots. (Left hand finish possible going left of the tree?)

2a. Half Life 7b+
This is a left hand variation finish on Shelf life. Only use the right hand on the left edge of the shelf, and climb up the wall finishing just left of the tree.

2b. Shelf Life Direct Start 7b+/7c
Climb direct up to the middle of the shelf. Not using the good pinch/undercut on problem 2, or the good layaways on problem 4.

3. Shelf Life Indirect 7b/7b+
Use an obvious pair of layaways to get some sloppy holds just right of the right end of the shelf. Then slap left wards to the shelf and finish as before.

3a. Shelf Less 7b+/7c
Start as for the above problem but instead of slapping to the shelf. Slap a flake just right again and finish directly using a heel hook on the shelf.

4. Mo’s Undercut 7c+ (Soft)
Use the obvious pockets to gain an undercut and make awkward moves to gain the top.

There is potential for another problem just right revolving around a diagonal edge and a crimp which are close together somewhere in the 8’s

5. All Strung Out 7c+
Just left of problem 7, use a big undercut and make a big span to small edge with the right hand. Use this to gain a layaway as a gaston, then lock to the top.

6. The Upstart 6b
From a low start gain the good holds and then the top.

7. 5+/6a
Just right of the last problem the wall can be climbed via a side pull pocket from a low start.

8. Further right is an okay wall with some good warm ups on it (about 5+) and a trickier line on the right just before the ivy at about 7a+

1 comment:

  1. Looks good where is it? we found this - just one good project,401169&st=4&ar=y&mapp=map.srf&searchp=ids.srf&dn=587&ax=453789&ay=401169&lm=0
    Also one of the nearby quarries looks like it might have some possibilities?