Friday, 2 July 2010

A Bit of Black Tor

After work i' decided to check out a good old slab problem i climbed a very long time ago. It was still there and it was even better than i remembered. It was cleaned and climbed again and even given a name, The looking Glass, a problem well worth seeking out. here is the info plus some other problems that got done earlier this year including the very hard Playing with Fire. Which is best described as gritstones answer to Sway On!

There are a few areas located in the Crowden Valley these boulders lie just above the Pennine Way as it works it way towards Laddow rocks shown in the map to the right.

Weasel Boulders

This is the easiest area to get to and is an obvious collection of small boulders set just back from the Pennine way

1. Playing With Fire 8a
From a sitting start on two crimpy layaways make a stiff pull off the floor to slap to the okay crimp and use this to get the top.

2. One Move 5+
From the good edge in the centre of the boulder pop to the top and pull over.

3. The Groove 6b
Found on the Boulder just behind is an attractive looking little groove. Climb this from a sit start in the centre.

4. 3
Step off and climb up the big slab not using either arete

5. The weasel 6b+
On the back of the boulder is a pit climb up the wall from a sit start in the centre

6. 4
Smear up the left arete of the slab

7. The Slab 5+/6a
Smear up the centre of the slab. Variations are possible, climbing staying left is easier further right is harder.

8. 3
Smear up the right arete of the slab

9. Atari 7a+

From a sit start slab up the two aretes until you get to a sloper on the left. Use this to swing around the left side and finish up the heathery top out.

The slab

Just before the Playing with Fire Boulder there is a faint track leading up a little hill just off to the left. This leads to a wall which if you follow will bring you to the boulder.

1. The Looking Glass 7a+
The Very Classy slab climbed in the middle starting from an undercut just left of the arete.

2. The Arete 6c
Climbing up the right arete is also good.

High Edge Boulders

These boulders offer some great problems, but on some of them the ground does slope away spoiling them a little. They can be found high up on the left side of the crag of Black tor.

1. The Mantle 6c
From a sitting start climb up the slopes and mantle the lip of the boulder.

2. The Traverse 6b+
From the same sitting start traverse the shelf rightwards and finish up the arête as for the next problem

3. Escape from Monday 7a
A direct sitting start to the left side of the right arête. This involves a a hard move to get the good layaways on the left.

4. Twins 6b+
Climb the twin aretes staying on the left side of the right uphill arête.

5. 6a
Just right of the crack climb the wall from a sit start using layaways.

6. The Ill defined 7a+
Climb the ill defined arete on the right from an awkward direct sitting start. This leads to a tricky mantle at the top.

7. 6b
Climb the wall from a sitting start up the edges

8. The Fin 6c
Climb the striking right side of the fin arete feature from a sitting start and not using the wall behind for feet.

9. The Wall 6a+
Climb the centre of the wall from a sitting start.

10. Right Arete 6b+
From a sit down start again climb the right arete and wall just left

That will do for now I'll post the details of the stuff on the right hand side at a later stage..........

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